Years ago, rocking a goatee beard was seen as a bit of a joke. It was the go-to style for guys who thought they were much cooler than they were. But, eventually, guys who were actually really cool started adopting it as part of their everyday look. George Clooney had one. Johnny Depp, too. And it was also the signature vibe for characters like Tony Stark in Iron Man and Walter White in Breaking Bad. Basically, if you wanted to look badass, the goatee was the GOAT.
That's good and all, but it's also one of the most difficult beard styles to achieve and maintain. That doesn't mean it's impossible, though. So, if you want it, you'll be pleased to know we sat down with TJ Hunt, barber at Time Shoreditch, and Maxwell Oakley, co-founder at Supply 91, to find out everything you need to know to style a goatee beard.
SKIP TO: What is a goatee? | What's the difference between a goatee and a Van Dyke? | What are the different types of goatees? | What's the best type of beard trimmer for a goatee style? | Top tips for trimming a goatee | How to grow a goatee
What is a goatee?
So, what even is a goatee? Essentially, it's a beard where the sideburns and cheeks are shaved free of facial hair (or at a push, short stubble), and the hair around the chin, moustache, soul patch, and any adjoining areas linking them are left longer.
“Usually, the edges of the moustache are the boundaries, and the baseline stretches to around an inch under the chin,” says Hunt. “The result, if your beard grows fully in this area, is an almost circular-shaped beard in the centre point of your jawline.”
“This is a style that works really well if you struggle to grow hair on your cheeks and jaw,” says Oakley. “If you're not sure where to begin, look to Adam Driver, Austin Butler, and Keanu Reeves for some solid inspiration.”
What's the difference between a goatee and a Van Dyke?
So a goatee and a Van Dyke are the same thing, right? Well, not exactly. While both of these looks seem quite similar, there are actually some pretty big differences between the two styles.
“Traditionally, the goatee beard connects between the moustache and chin, whereas the two areas are disconnected in a Van Dyke,” says Hunt. “Also, the chin area of the latter tends to be pointed downwards, whereas the chin area of the former tends to follow the shape of the chin more naturally. However, lines have been blurred over time, and the two have sort of meshed together in some instances.”
“A goatee is usually a small beard on the chin, sometimes with a moustache, sometimes without,” says Oakley. “It's a broad term, but technically, a Van Dyke is a more defined style –a goatee paired with a moustache, but with the two kept separate.”
What are the different types of goatees?
Like every other beard style out there, there are quite a number of different goatee types, and which one you opt for is very much down to personal preference.
“For example, a ‘chin puff’ is typically a style where the facial hair is grown from the bottom of the lip down to the chin, often without a moustache,” says Hunt. “A distinctive look for sure. Think Fred Durst but without those crazy pointy sideburns."
A ‘circular chin puff’, however, is a more wearable style rocked by many people who have coiled beards. It tends to sit lower on the chin with the soul patch lopped off.
“The ‘anchor’ beard is similar to a Van Dyke in that the chin area is pointed but with the addition of a soul patch. These tend to suit guys with facial hair that grows out straight. For a classic ‘full’ goatee, think less Van Dyke and more Sean Dyche. It's the whole shebang – moustache, soul patch, and chin – in perfect harmony.”
What's the best type of beard trimmer for a goatee style?
OK, so you're thinking of getting a goatee. Now it's time to invest in some solid equipment and a decent beard kit. In an ideal world, you'd have two trimmers in your arsenal: one to shift bulk and one to do the intricate detailing stuff.
“The bulk shifter could be a hair trimmer or beard-specific trimmer, but it needs to be powerful enough to avoid snagging and have changeable length levels in case you choose to go longer or shorter,” says Hunt. “The details are best done with, well, a detailer. They tend to have a narrower, sharper blade, and they're used to get those satisfyingly crisp lines. If you don't have the bathroom space, or just want to keep things simple, then you’ll need one piece of kit that can sort of do both. Something that offers a variety of length options but can also have the guard removed.”
